Dieter explain us how easy it is with the Swedish health system. If you are ill, you go to the doctor and pay your bill right there to the yearly limit up to 900 Euro. Whatever is over this amount the government take care about. He also goes into raptures about the people here in Sweden which are always ready to help. Dieter and Silvia (in their 50th) know what they are talking about, since they left Germany last year for good with their three dogs all the way from the Black Forest (south-west of Germany) and emigrated to Kornsj?garden in North of Sweden. They are running a campground and as well a small restaurant where Dieter, a passionate chef ? is serving specialities from the Black Forest. An idyllic place they have chosen. We stay here two days in which we do our necessary laundry and clean up our bus before we are heading North through the forests of Norway.
See picture in German version ? Forests, rivers and lakes
The colour green in all shades is mandatory again in our all day travel. We drive from the Bottnic Bay at the Swedish North coast to the North sea at the Norwegian Northwest coast. 500 km just forest, rivers and lakes.
See picture in German version ? somewhere in Sweden
Mostly in the morning or evening hours we are visited by a vast amount of mosquito?s. Some days you can cop with it and they don?t bite as much, some days you don?t know what to do. You have the feeling they want to eat all of your body. Even the reindeer flee during the summer month to the coastline or up the mountains. You have to give lots of blood for the beauty of the North.
See picture in German version ? not even mosquito spray is helping
But on the other side we see a animal kingdom which pays out a lot. Quiet often we can watch reindeer grazing on the plateaus. They belong to the family of deer but are smaller then their relatives in middle Europe.
See picture in German version ? Reindeer
We take the street E 12 to Fosnacken and decide for a side road. After a while there is no asphalt anymore just road metal. A real dusty business which lasts fort he next 200 km till the border to Norway. Here at the border there is no border guard, no sign, nothing at all. But suddenly the streets are made of tar again. And now the king of the North say hello to us. Right next to the street there are three grazing elks. Nothing on this earth can disturb them. Happily we can send Heinz after all the promised picture about an elk. (Heinz guarantee no zoo picture!)
See picture in German version ? the king of the North
In the evening we reach the coastline at the North sea and enjoy after five days forest the wide view onto the sea.
See picture in German version Finally far-sightedness
The first time since we are on the road the temperature is getting unbearable. This kind of climate we actually just know from movies from Africa or from previous phone calls back home to Germany. Already since five days it is lasting now. Our VW-Bus becomes a sauna. During the day we try to hide in the shade or at a cooler place.
See picture in German version ? Cooling down in a mountain creek
We have no problems with the constant broad daylight. Around 2 or 3 am we mostly go to bed and get up around 8 am again. The body cop with it quiet easy and does not need any more sleep. We drive further on towards Mo I Rana, a rather ugly industrial city, where we meet an acquaintance of Michaela. Then we go further direction to the Lofot Islands. We have passed the polar circle. A sign ?Welcome to the Arctic? stands here. But none of us two ever thought that it can be as hot in the Arctic. Around 0.15 am we reach with a ferry the Lofot island Moskenesoya. The island state of the Lofoten goes far out into the North sea. The mountains are rising right out of the Sea and are not to compare with any other mountain range.
See picture in German version ?in the background the peaks of the Lofoten
Here you meet any kind of outdoor people: from the fishermen to the mountain climber. Since our last visit seven years ago, a lot of things have changed, concerning the traffic net. They have build tunnels and new road layouts. Butt his was more then necessary, since the tourism have tripled since then. The five largest islands are connected with either a underwater tunnel or bridges. For the smaller ones there is a frequent ferry running.
See picture in German version ? The houses gloom in the midnight sun
Skrei (spawning cod) which is caught during the winter fisheries is the most important for the industry. Fishermen from all over Norway take part in the Lofot Fisheries and stay for this time in fisher huts which are called Rorbuer and build on wood into the sea. In Summertime this Rorboer are rented to the Tourists.
See picture in German version ? Fisher huts on Sakrisoy, water like in the South pacific
As well we try to fish after everybody told us ?that even the blinds would catch fish right away?. Perseverance we brought with us along, but still we have to go after a good while into a supermarket to have some steaks instead of fish for our barbeque.
See picture in German version ? on Moskenesoya)
Thomas, a biker from Regensburg, him we met yesterday, comes in the morning for a cup of tea and tell us the last news from our ?old? native town, before he leave us again. (?Thomas, we hope you did got save home again?)
See picture in German version ? Thomas from Regensburg
The weather god can?t hear our moaning and groaning anymore about the heat. So therefore after six days we get from one extreme into the other. Since a couple of days now it is raining cats and dogs and the wind comes from every direction. On top of it it?s cold and misty. We realize how difficult it can be ? weather wise -, to call a bus our home since we still can remember the bad weather from the Shetland Islands.
See picture in German version ? on Vestvagoy
We meet Karen on the ferry from Bodo to the Lofoten islands, a native from Norway, which leaves already over 30 years in Sweden. She grew up on the island of Vaeroy and is on the way to visit her mother and two brothers. Karen did invite us for a cup of coffee when we would come over there. The island of Vaeroy is the last island of the Lofoten and just to reach either by ferry or helicopter
See picture in German version ? fascinating mountain range
The weather is not getting better at all. After a few days, in which we thought it will change we decide to continue our travel and phoned Karen to tell her that unfortunately we can not manage to come. We travel further up north into the forests of the Northland where we came from, a week ago. Our next destination is Lappland, which stretches over four countries: Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola peninsula. About 70 000 people of the natives of North Europe are still living all over this four countries. They call themselves Sami, Samit or Sameh and the country itself Sapmi. By the way, it is an insult to call the people of Lappland: Lappen.
See picture in German version ? Sami-girl in her traditional dress
The breeding of reindeers is still one of the main income of Lappland. But just only a few Sami still live like their ancestors in Lavvu (tents) and wander around with their reindeer from place to place.
See picture in German version ? Lavvu, the tent of the Samish people
The modern breeder of reindeer is doing his work with a motor slide and always having a cell phone with him. As well helicopters are of big help when they get the reindeer together. Fur of Reindeer and other handcraft you can buy all over Lappland on the main traffic roads. Some of the Samish people are living during the summer month in tents right next to the streets and while they are selling their goods they even wear their old traditional dress. This dresses are nowadays just worn on festivity days or on big meetings. But there are exceptions to the rule. In Kautokeino we saw yesterday at the supermarket two women with their traditional dresses.
See picture in German version ? somewhere in Lappland
Well that was it again from us from Lappland
Till next time

Raimund and Michaela

After so much cold and rain the last days here on the Shetland Islands, we don´t hesitate to leave them now direction Norway. The ferry which comes from Iceland, will stop tonight the very first time in Summer 2005 on the Shetland Islands. Since we have gas canister in our bus, there is a control at the check in, to ensure, we definitely have shut off the canister and even if the gas line is disconnected to the canister. In that moment as I want to close the back door of the bus, I feel a horrible pain, which goes through my body like a lightening. Suddenly I can´t move down my left arm. Something in my back is not right. With a stretched out arm I try to get on the passenger seat. This does not work out without the help of Michaela. Behind us there is already a long queue of cars. Michaela drive our bus onto the ferry. In that moment I try to move myself in another direction it hurts. What shall we do? Going back onto the Shetlands, or stay on board and hope there is a doctor who could help to release me from my pain. Staying back would mean we have to wait another week till the next ferry leaves to Bergen, to tell them on the ship at first about my situation would mean the Captain would send us right away back off the ship. We decide to stay onboard and will ask them after we set sail, if there is a doctor on board. It is already 10 pm when the ferry leaves the harbour of Lerwick direction Bergen on the west coast of Norway. The crossing takes 14 hours which means we should be in Bergen around lunchtime next day. Michaela get me in to our booked couchette where there is place for 10 persons altogether. I try to get myself on the mattress on the very bottom. This works not as good as I thought it would. I kneel on the floor, the upper part of my body lying on the mattress. For me this way of resting is in the moment the most comfortable way and I wait for Michaelas return. She is gone to ask whether there is a doctor on board or not. Now an elderly English couple comes in the couchette. I am sure they think I am drunk, since this route with the ship is much favoured by the Norwegians as a „Party route“ (Alcohol in Norway is extremely expensive) But honestly to say I don´t care what say think about me, apart from that I can´t really look at them. Michaela comes back, with for me the horrifying message “There is no doctor on board” But they will check, if there is one among the passengers. Since it is nearly midnight, we have to wait till tomorrow morning. We decide to take a double cabin for us alone. I am happy as we enter the cabin, since I know, now we are alone. It is an inside cabin without window, but still you can hear how strong the wind is outside. The ship starts moving more and harder. An empty glass falls off the table and Michaela take all loose things away. In the cabin next door, we hear a few things rolling for- and backwards and lasts for the rest of the night, so this cabin might be empty. I am awake till the morning then the sea gets calm again. Michaela goes back to reception to hear what is all about. But no, there is no doctor found. But the lady at reception gets hold with the ships agent at Bergen and he will upon arrival give as an address of the nearest doctor. I am resting on the bed in our bus, while Michaela drives criss cross through Bergen City. At the first hospital we stop, we do not know if this is that on which we´ve been told neither it interest us, and rush into it. Michaela coordinates everything. At the waiting room there are at least 25 people. But god thanks we don´t have to wait so long. With my arm high up I go through the room, while people look a bit strange at me. The doctor tell us, that most probably it is a pulled muscle and it all presses on the nerves. He gives me a receipt for tablets to relief the pain and more he says he can´t do. I demand he should give me a injection “ the tablets are just as good they may need a bit longer then the injection”. I am quiet unsatisfied with it. We find ourselves a place to be for the next few days on a campground, in one of that hats you can rent in Norway. Slowly the pain is getting at ease. Day after day, I can move my arm down again a bit more. From Erna, a very special lady and being a physiotherapist, which the owner of the campground have been recommended to us, I get a full treatment, which helps me to live and walk quiet normal again.
But now time is running. Already on the Orkney Islands we booked a flight for Michaela with Ryanair from Oslo to Salzburg, since our Wireless Lan of our Laptop is not working from the beginning of our trip. In Great Britain we gave our Laptop three times to different companies but nobody could solve the problem. The brother of Michaela, which lives with his family next to Salzburg did coordinate all in advance, so in that moment Michaela would come there, the Laptop could go right into reparation since the flight back would just be five days later.
We now had still five days to go, till Michaela would leave and certainly in this moment we were not quiet sure, if I could manage all by myself when Michaela is gone. My condition was coming back, but slowly. We drove from Bergen to Oslo over Europe’s highest plateau, the Hardangervidda, where on the 6th of June in 1000 m height still was about 1 meter of snow.
See picture in German version …at the Hardangervidda Winter is still there even in Summer time
Slowly I have to get used to driving again and therefore I do some stages from about 30 km. We reach our destination Sandefjord, south of Oslo, where there in the near the airport of Ryanair is situated, one day ahead of time. Now it is clear, that I can manage without Michaela for the next five days. Next day in the morning I bring Michaela to the airport where she is flying over London onto Salzburg.
See picture in German version … Departure to Salzburg
At the airport I discover German Newspapers. The first in nearly three month. I buy them all. One Süddeutsche, one Frankfurter Allgemeine and one already four days old BamS. My yearning for German newspapers is huge and the next days I have plenty of time to read them. I stay a couple more days in Sandefjord, where I find myself a wonderful secluded place at the coast. This is the perfect place to recover.
See picture in German version … Islandgarden of Sandefjord
Michaela´s return flight is booked to Stockholm, since just two days later Anni and Heinz, Michaela´s parents are visiting us and will also arrive in Stockholm. So I drive the about 530 km in a very relaxed manner from Norway towards Sweden till the East coast. This forested area is sparsely settled and I come along wide lakes. I see a lot of elks — but just on traffic signs. The premiere for my first elk is still to come.When Michaela arrives she ask me right away, if I have already seen an elk. I tell her about my “Sense of achievement”. We decide, that one of us, which see the first elk, have to get from the other one Maß beer (liter of beer).
see Picture in German version: Where are the elks?
Michaela comes back without the Laptop. Michaela and Christian have been running around the last days all just because of this “stupid thing”. From one specialist to the next one. They found the defect but it could not be done in that short time left. But this is not a big deal. Anni and Heinz will bring them with in two days time. We would like to take the opportunity to thank you, Christian, once more again, we do know that all of your work stayed behind, just to help us solve the problem. Thanks again for your helpfulness. And thanks as well for the updates on our Laptop. A “Lapin Kulta” (Lappland cold) on you.
Today in the evening at 10.45 pm Anni and Heinz will arrive. The time till there we spend with searching for elks. But even today we have no success.
See picture in German version … Woolen gras in the evening light
Punctually at 10.45 pm, it is still light, we welcome Anni and Heinz at the arrival hall. Heinz is full of words for the magnificent view down to the countless lakes and enormous forested areas.
See picture in German version ….countless lakes and forests
We drive onto a campground where Anni and Heinz will spend the night in a small hut. We sleep like usually in our bus. Next day the sun gets us out of our sleeping bags quiet early. For today we don´t really have a plan and so we drive criss cross through the countryside. God thanks in this area are not so many churches, since Heinz would like to stop at everyone of them.
See picture in German version … Michaela, Anni and Heinz
Some of the churches we can even visit from inside. Most of the churches here are during working days closed. So even Heinz is satisfied now. In the evening we come to a small village named Grisslehamn, where it is quiet busy at the harbour. A few men and women wear historical dresses. We get to know, that tomorrow the yearly historical sailing regatta to the far Aland Islands takes place. About 40 boats will attend this regatta and the crossing will take about 4 – 6 hours. The crew of the old sailing boats exists of four persons which all will be dressed historical
See picture in German version …historical sailing regatta towards the Aland Islands
This happening we would not like to miss and so we decide to go with the ferry to the Aland Islands for the next two days. The Aland Islands exists from over 6500 islands and rock formations and lie between Sweden and Finland. They are an autonomous area, belong to Finland but the main language is Old-Swedish. Next morning we are already onboard the ship when the sailing regatta starts. The ferry accompanies the first few boats and sets on sail then itself. The next two days we drive through the mainland of Aland. Once in a while there is as well a church for Heinz.
See picture in German version Family Robinson to camp on the Aland Islands
Back on the mainland on the next day the actual highlight of our travel together is waiting for us. Therefore we have to start with the story in the beginning for all of you not knowing Liisa. Liisa is our Finnish friend. Michaela and Liisa did work and lived together in a cabin on the sea going ship „MS Vistafjord“ 17 years ago. After this time, Liisa did go back again to Finland, just to return a few years later in Germany-Munich where she again lived together with Michaela till we met each other. Liisa still works and lives in Munich and she is an integral part of the Mark-Clan.
See picture in German version Bild … Evening sun in the North
When Liisa got to know that Anni and Heinz do visit us in Stockholm, spontaneous she booked a ships travel from Stockholm to Helsinki and back again with a personal guide in Helsinki. As we heard about that we could not believe it. What a surprise! One thing we can already tell ahead of time: it was a unique experience for all four of us. First of all we loose our way in Stockholm. Finally we come to the harbour. Bad luck, it is the wrong harbour. Back to the Stockholm traffic chaos till the next harbour. This time we can already see from far away the big ship of Viking Line.
See picture in German version … with the Viking Line ship to Helsinki
At 5 pm the ship departs and will arrive Helsinki at 9.30 am. As we enter our cabin (this time with window) we get the next surprise: a bottle of champagne, four glasses and a greeting card from Liisa and Ari.
More then three hours it takes to pass by ship the complete island garden of Stockholm. Again and again we see the small islands with the colourful houses on it from up ther,e 35 m above sea level, from the sundeck. The deep standing evening sun is colouring the islands in a very special light. The whole night it is not getting dark in this part of the world, at this time of the year. So we see the same sun, which we left behind yesterday since there is never a sunset. Pävi, a friend of Liisa, which lives in Helsinki, awaits us at the exit. She did take a day off for us to show us Helsinki. From the harbour we go on foot over the market, further on to the cathedral and then into the inner city of Helsinki. Then we continue our sightseeing tour by streetcar.
See picture in German version … the cathedral of Helsinki
Passed the Olympic stadium and back to the inner city where Ari, a friend of Liisa, booked a table for us in a restaurant with specialities from Lapland. We have grilled reindeer, bear salami, air dried elk meat, lax from Lapland and as a dessert cheese from Lapland in hot cinnamon cream, with it the arctic berries.
See picture in German version … Lappländische Spezialitäten)
After this delicious meal we go back to the ship where we have to say Good bye to Pävi.
See picture in German version … We say good bye or better see you again Pävi)
Next day we arrive Stockholm at 9.30 am.
Now we would like to take the opportunity as well in the name of Anni and Heinz to say thank you to you, our dear Liisa. You have served us two wonderful terrific days, which we will definitely remember for the rest of our life. As well to you a “Lapin Kulta”. A warm thank you certainly to you Pävi and you Ari to make this surprise come true.
The last day we start relaxed. We believe that even Anni and Heinz did got the Elk fever They keep looking just like we do, on and on and on. But unfortunately no elk.
It has been a fantastic week for every one of us. We now say good bye to Anni and Heinz at the airport and promise, that we will send them a picture from the first elk we see.
We travel further up North. Just after a few meters we entered the motorway, we see while we are driving on the right side next to a bridge our very first elk. Immediately Michaela gets on the cell phone per sms “Elk alarm”. Reply to this “Where is the picture”
See picture in German version … till next time